Albanian Riviera Drive: Complete Road Trip Guide from Vlora to Saranda (2025)

I’ll be honest—before my Albanian Riviera drive, I had low expectations. I’d heard whispers about potholed roads, questionable drivers, and beaches that “couldn’t possibly compete” with Greece or Croatia. Boy, was I wrong!

The moment I rounded that first hairpin turn on Llogara Pass and saw the turquoise Ionian Sea stretching endlessly below me, I knew I’d stumbled onto something special. This Albanian coast road trip turned out to be one of the most spectacular coastal drives I’ve ever done—and I’ve driven the Amalfi Coast, Big Sur, and the Croatian islands.

What makes the driving Albanian Riviera experience so incredible? It’s Europe’s last truly affordable beach paradise, with crystal-clear waters, empty beaches, fresh seafood for €10, and accommodations that won’t destroy your budget. Plus, you’ll feel like an explorer rather than just another tourist ticking off overcrowded Instagram spots.

In this guide, I’m sharing everything I learned from my Albania coastal drive—the best stops, hidden beaches, road conditions reality checks, where to stay, and all the practical tips I wish someone had told me before I went. Let’s dive in!

Planning Your Albanian Riviera Drive

When to Go (And When I Went)

I did my Albanian Riviera road trip in late May, and the timing was perfect. The weather was warm (25-28°C) (77–82 °F), the water was swimmable, and the summer crowds hadn’t arrived yet. Most beach clubs and restaurants were open, but I never struggled to find parking or accommodation.

Best time to go to Albania

• Late May to mid-June: Warm, quiet, everything’s open
• September: Still warm, fewer tourists, slightly cheaper
• July-August: Hottest and busiest (prices double, beaches packed)
• Avoid: October-April when many places close entirely

How Many Days You Actually Need

I planned for 5 days, and it was ideal. Could you do it in 3? Technically, yes, but you’d be rushing. Here’s my honest take:

• 3 days: Doable but rushed—you’ll hit the highlights but miss the magic
• 5 days: Sweet spot for relaxation and exploration
• 7 days: Perfect if you want serious beach time and day trips

The Albanian Riviera itinerary shouldn’t be rushed. Trust me, you’ll want time to linger at beaches, explore old villages, and enjoy those long seafood dinners watching the sunset.

Renting a Car in Albania: What I Learned

I rented my car at Tirana airport and picked it up right when I landed—super convenient for starting the drive. Here’s what you need to know about the Albania road trip planning process:

Where to book: I recommend using DiscoverCars to compare rental companies and find the best deals. They aggregate options from both international chains and local Albanian companies, so you can see everything in one place and usually snag better rates than booking directly. Plus, their customer service was helpful when I had questions before my trip.

Essential tips:

• Book in advance during summer (€25-40/day, sometimes cheaper through Discover Cars)
• Get comprehensive insurance—seriously, don’t skip it
• Check for existing damage THOROUGHLY and photograph everything
• Manual transmission is standard (automatic costs more)
• You’ll need your license, passport, and credit card
• International Driving Permit recommended, but not always required

Reality check: You don’t need a 4WD. I drove the entire route in a basic sedan. The main SH8 highway is paved (though not always perfectly). SUVs are nice for accessing some hidden beaches, but totally not necessary for the standard Albanian Riviera route.

Road Conditions in Albania: The Honest Truth

The SH8 highway Albania has improved dramatically in recent years. Long stretches are newly paved and smooth. But—and this is important—you’ll still encounter:

• Occasional potholes (easily avoidable)
• Narrow sections on mountain passes
• Local drivers who think speed limits are suggestions
• Limited lighting at night
• Hairpin turns on Llogara Pass

Is it scary? No. Is it the German autobahn? Also no. Just stay alert, drive defensively, and you’ll be fine.

North to South or South to North?

I drove Vlora to Saranda (north to south) and loved having the coast on my right side for better views and easier pull-offs. However, driving south to north means:

• Sun behind you during morning drives (better photos)
• Easier to extend into Greece afterward
• Slightly less traffic

Honestly? Either direction works great. Choose based on your broader itinerary.

Albania Travel Budget Breakdown

My 5-day Albanian Riviera drive cost approximately:

• Car rental: €150 total
• Accommodation: €30-50/night (€200 total)
• Food: €20-30/day (€125 total)
• Gas: €60
• Beaches/parking: €30
• Activities: €50

Total: Around €615 for 5 days—ridiculously affordable compared to anywhere else in the Mediterranean!

Download Offline Maps!

This is non-negotiable. Mobile coverage is spotty in some areas. I used Maps.me with downloaded Albania maps, and it saved me multiple times. Google Maps works too if you download the offline area first.

The Complete Route: Vlora to Saranda

The SH8 highway in Albania stretches about 120 kilometers from Vlora to Saranda, but calling it a “2-hour drive” (as Google Maps suggests) is ridiculous. Make it at least 3-4 hours of actual driving time, plus stops—because trust me, you’ll be stopping constantly for photos, beaches, and viewpoints.

Llogara Pass: The Dramatic Beginning

The Llogara Pass drive is the most dramatic section of the entire route. You’ll climb from sea level to over 1,000 meters through Llogara National Park, navigating tight switchbacks with absolutely stunning views.

What to expect:

• Sharp hairpin turns (take them slow!)
• Incredible panoramic viewpoints every few minutes
• Restaurants at the top with spectacular terraces
• Maybe some goats or cows blocking the road (yes, really)

I stopped at Llogara Pass Restaurant for a coffee just to drink in the views. From up here, you can see the entire coastline stretching toward Dhërmi—it’s absolutely breathtaking and worth the €2 espresso.

Safety tip: Don’t attempt this in rain or fog. The turns are challenging enough in good conditions.

Breaking Down the Journey

Here’s how I split my Albanian coastal road adventure:

Vlora to Dhërmi (50km, 1.5 hours): Includes the Llogara Pass climb. Most dramatic section. I stayed in Dhërmi for two nights.
Dhërmi to Himara (25km, 45 minutes): Easier coastal stretch. Beautiful beaches all along. I spent one night in Himara and wish I’d stayed longer.
Himara to Saranda (50km, 1.5 hours): Passes through Qeparo, Borsh, and smaller villages. Less dramatic than Llogara but still gorgeous. I based myself in Saranda for two nights.

The beauty of this route? Flexibility. If you fall in love with a beach (which you will), just stay longer!

Best Stops Along the Albanian Riviera Drive

Llogara National Park

Beyond the famous pass, Llogara National Park offers hiking trails and cooler mountain air. I didn’t hike (too eager to get to the beaches), but if you’re into it, there are trails through pine forests with sea views.

Pull-over viewpoints: There are several marked spots on the downhill toward Dhërmi. Don’t skip them! The turquoise water against white cliffs is unreal. Best photo opportunity of the entire drive.

Dhërmi Beach: My Favorite Stop

Dhërmi was my favorite beach on the Albanian Riviera. The main beach is a long stretch of white pebbles (bring water shoes!) with crystal-clear turquoise water that rivals anything I’ve seen in the Caribbean.

The beach has a mix of free public sections and beach clubs (€5-10 for sunbeds and umbrellas). I bounced between both—using the clubs when I wanted bathroom facilities and drinks service, and the free areas when I wanted space and quiet.

Parking warning: Unofficial “parking attendants” will try to charge you €5-10. Sometimes it’s legitimate, sometimes not. Look for official signs. I parked on the hillside road for free and walked down—about 10 minutes, but saved money.

Where I stayed: Geo & Art Boutique Hotel in Himarë is a chic, family‐run stay right on the beachfront, with stylish rooms that open onto balconies offering sweeping sea views.  

Gjipe Beach: The Hidden Canyon

Gjipe Beach requires effort—a 20-minute hike down a canyon from the parking area—which means it’s much less crowded. The setting is spectacular: a small beach enclosed by dramatic canyon walls.

How to get there: Turn off the main road at the Gjipe Beach sign (between Dhërmi and Himara). Drive the rough dirt road (doable in a regular car, just slow), park, and hike down. Bring water, snacks, and cash (small beach bar operates in summer).

Worth it? Absolutely! The hike down is easy, and swimming in this remote spot felt like discovering a secret paradise.

Himara Town: Old World Charm

I almost skipped Himara town and would have regretted it. The old town of Himara Albania, sits on the hillside above the main beach area—a maze of stone streets, old churches, and traditional stone houses.

I had lunch at Taverna Lefteri restaurant, and it was hands-down my best meal of the trip. Fresh grilled fish, Greek salad, and homemade bread—all for €12.

The main Himara beach is nice, but it gets busy. I preferred the quieter Livadhi Beach just south of town—locals swim here, and it felt more authentic.

Porto Palermo Castle

This surprised me! I wasn’t expecting much, but Porto Palermo is a small Ottoman-era castle sitting on a tiny peninsula, completely surrounded by bright blue water. It’s incredibly scenic.

Quick stop guide: Park for free, walk the causeway to the castle (10 minutes), explore inside (€3 entry), take photos from every angle (it’s ridiculously photogenic), and you’re done in 30-45 minutes. Perfect break from driving.

Qeparo: The Village That Stole My Heart

Qeparo has two parts: New Qeparo (beach area) and Old Qeparo (hillside village). Most people skip it. Big mistake!

Old Qeparo Albania, is a partially abandoned stone village with incredible character. Some houses are being restored, but many remain atmospheric ruins. It’s very beautiful and completely free to explore.

I had dinner at a small taverna run by a local family—no menu, just “what we’re cooking today.” They brought out course after course of traditional Albanian food, and I paid €8. These authentic experiences are what make the Albanian Riviera drive so special.

Borsh Beach: Longest Beach in Albania

Borsh Beach stretches for 7 kilometers—Albania’s longest beach. It’s less developed than Dhërmi or Himara, which means cheaper accommodation and a more local vibe.

I didn’t stay here but stopped for a swim and lunch. The water was perfectly clear, and I practically had the entire beach to myself on a Tuesday in May. Summer will be busier, but it’s still nowhere near as packed as Greece.

Ksamil & Saranda: The Finale

Ksamil and Saranda are the most developed (touristy) parts of the Albanian Riviera, but they’re still worth visiting. Ksamil beaches are stunning—shallow turquoise water and small islands you can swim to.

Saranda itself is a proper city with a beautiful promenade, tons of restaurants, and easy access to day trip sites. It’s more Greek-feeling than Albanian (Greek border is super close), and prices are slightly higher than elsewhere on the coast.

What I did from Saranda:

• Day trip to Butrint (UNESCO archaeological site—absolutely worth it!)
• Blue Eye Spring (beautiful but honestly skippable if you’re short on time)
• Just relaxed and enjoyed the vibe

Practical Driving Tips from My Experience

Road Conditions Reality Check

I found the Albanian road conditions much better than expected. The SH8 highway is mostly well-maintained, though you’ll encounter:

• Random potholes: Usually easy to spot and avoid
• Narrow sections: Especially on mountain passes—two cars can pass, but it’s tight
• Unmarked hazards: Occasional rocks or debris from the hillside
• Speed bumps: In villages, often unmarked (learned this the hard way!)

The newly paved sections (most of the coastal route) are genuinely excellent. The worst parts are the approaches to some beaches on side roads.

Dealing with Albanian Drivers

Albanian driving culture is… let’s call it “enthusiastic.” Here’s what I observed:

• Passing on curves is normal (for them, not for you!)
• Speed limits are viewed as gentle suggestions
• Horns are used liberally (don’t take it personally)
• Local knowledge beats road rules

My approach: I drove defensively, pulled over to let aggressive drivers pass, and never tried to “keep up” with locals. Zero stress, zero problems.

Parking and Beach Access

Most beaches have parking areas charging €2-5 (reasonable). Watch out for unofficial guys demanding €10—that’s usually a scam. Look for signs or ask at beach restaurants.

Scam to avoid: At popular beaches like Dhërmi, guys in vests will flag you down, claiming you must park in their area. Sometimes legit, sometimes not. If unsure, drive a bit further and park where you see locals parking.

Albania Gas Stations and Phone Coverage

Gas stations appear every 20-30 kilometers in summer. I never felt worried about running out. They’re modern, accept cards, and prices are reasonable (about €1.40/liter when I went).

Phone coverage (I had Vodafone Albania) was good in towns and on main roads, but spotty in some mountain areas. That’s why offline maps are essential for Albania driving safety.

Never Drive at Night!

I made this mistake once. The combination of unlit roads, occasional animals, and challenging turns makes night driving genuinely dangerous. All my driving was done during daylight, and I strongly recommend you do the same.

If you’re out for dinner and it gets dark, just stay for another drink. Albanian hospitality means you’ll never be rushed!

Best Vehicle Type

As I mentioned, I drove a basic sedan, and it was totally fine. The SH8 road conditions don’t require anything special. However, if you want to explore side roads to hidden beaches, an SUV gives you more options. Motorcycles are popular but obviously give you less protection on challenging roads.

Where to Stay & What to Eat in Albania

Accommodation Strategy

I moved every 1-2 nights, which worked perfectly for covering the coast without feeling rushed. The Albanian Riviera hotels range from basic guesthouses (€20-30) to boutique hotels (€60-100), with the sweet spot being family-run places around €35-50.

My recommendations by area:

Dhërmi: I stayed at Geo & Art Boutique Hotel (€45/night, pool, great views). Budget travelers loved Dhërmi Paradise Hostel. Beach clubs also rent bungalows if you want to be right on the sand.
Himara: Koks’ Guesthouse (€40/night, incredible beach view). The family running it gave me better travel tips than any guidebook!
Qeparo: Look for guesthouses in the old village. I heard great things about staying with local families (€25-30 with breakfast).
Saranda: More choices here. I stayed at Hotel Real (€50/night, modern, central).
Budget option: Hairy Lemon Hostel got great reviews from backpackers I met.

Booking advice: In May/June/September, you can often just show up and find places. July-August? Book ahead for sure. Many places don’t appear on hotels.com—ask around when you arrive for family-run spots.

Food and Restaurant Highlights

Albanian food was a delicious revelation! Fresh seafood, Mediterranean-influenced dishes, and incredibly affordable prices made eating out a pleasure rather than a budget concern.

Best meals I had:
Traditional Albanian: Taverna Lefteri in Himara (€10-15 per person). Try the grilled fish or octopus—caught that morning.
Beachfront dining: Multiple beach restaurants in Dhërmi serve fresh seafood at plastic tables literally on the beach. Super casual, super delicious, super cheap (€8-12 for grilled fish with salad and bread).
Local tavernas: In every small village, family-run tavernas serve whatever they’re cooking that day. These were consistently my favorite meals—authentic, generous portions, and impossibly cheap (€6-10).

Albanian specialties to try:

• Byrek (savory pastry—perfect breakfast)
• Tave kosi (baked lamb with yogurt)
• Fresh grilled fish (sea bass, dorado, whatever’s fresh)
• Albanian fërgesë (peppers, tomatoes, cheese, meat)
• Raki (local firewater—drink carefully!)

Money-saving tips: Grocery stores in larger towns sell fresh bread, cheese, tomatoes, and drinks for picnic lunches. Beach clubs often charge €10-15 for full meals that would cost €5-7 in town.

Quick Day Trips Worth Taking

Blue Eye Spring (Syri i Kaltër)

About 30 minutes from Saranda, the Blue Eye Spring is a stunning natural spring with incredibly blue water. It’s beautiful, no question.

Is it worth it? Honestly? If you have time, sure. But if you’re choosing between this and more beach time, I’d pick the beaches. The spring is scenic but small, and in summer it’s absolutely mobbed with tour groups. Entry is less than €3.

I went at 9 AM on a weekday and had it mostly to myself for about 20 minutes—that was nice. By 10:30, buses were arriving.

Butrint Archaeological Park

This UNESCO World Heritage site is 100% worth your time. Butrint is an ancient Greek and Roman city with a stunning lakeside setting. You’ll see a Roman theater, Byzantine basilica, Venetian fortress, and walking trails through forests.

Budget 2-3 hours minimum. Entry is €10 (worth every cent). Go early or late afternoon to avoid heat and crowds. The setting alone—between a lake and the sea—is magical.

Pro tip: Bring water and snacks. The on-site café is limited and overpriced.

Which to Prioritize?

If I had to choose just one: it would be Butrint, hands down. It’s culturally significant, visually stunning, and offers something completely different from beaches. Blue Eye is pretty, but ultimately just a nice spring. Butrint is legitimately one of the Mediterranean’s most impressive archaeological sites.

My Recommended Albanian Riviera Itinerary

3-Day Quick Version

If you only have 3 days for your Albanian Riviera drive trip:

Day 1: Vlora to Dhërmi (stop at Llogara Pass viewpoints). Afternoon/evening in Dhërmi. Sleep in Dhërmi.
Day 2: Morning, Dhërmi beach. Drive to Gjipe (hike and swim). Continue to Himara for lunch and exploration. Sleep in Himara.
Day 3: Morning, Himara/Porto Palermo. Drive to Saranda via Qeparo and Borsh (stop where it looks appealing). Afternoon in Ksamil beaches. Sleep in Saranda.

This hits the highlights, but you’ll be moving constantly. Doable but not exactly relaxing!

5-Day Ideal Version

My actual Albania road trip itinerary that felt perfectly paced:

Day 1: Arrive in Vlora, settle in, relax. (Or drive from Tirana if arriving at the airport—3 hours).
Day 2: Vlora to Dhërmi over Llogara Pass. Spend the afternoon at Dhërmi beach. Sleep in Dhërmi.
Day 3: Full day in Dhërmi. Morning beach, afternoon to Gjipe, back for sunset. Sleep in Dhërmi.
Day 4: Morning Dhërmi. Drive to Himara (explore the town and the old village). Afternoon at the beach. Sleep in Himara.
Day 5: Morning, Himara. Drive to Saranda via Qeparo, Porto Palermo, and Borsh. Afternoon in Ksamil. Sleep in Saranda.
Optional Day 6-7: Day trips from Saranda (Butrint, Blue Eye) or just beach time in Ksamil.

This version lets you actually relax and soak up the Albanian coast rather than just checking off stops!

How to Customize your Albania Riviera Road Trip

Beach lovers: Add extra days in Dhërmi and Ksamil. Skip day trips.
History buffs: Add Butrint, and potentially drive inland to Gjirokastër.
Adventure seekers: Include more hiking at Gjipe, Llogara trails, and water sports in Ksamil.
Budget travelers: Camp or stay in hostels, cook some meals, and avoid beach clubs.

The beauty of driving the Albanian Riviera is total flexibility. There’s no “wrong” way to do it!

FAQs on Albanian Riviera Drive

Final Words

My Albanian Riviera drive exceeded every expectation. I came for affordable beaches and left with memories of stunning coastline, incredible food, warm hospitality, and that rare feeling of discovering somewhere before everyone else does.

Is it perfect? No—roads have rough patches, some development is happening fast, and you won’t find the polished infrastructure of Western Europe. But that’s exactly what makes it special!

This is genuinely one of Europe’s last affordable beach paradises. You can eat fresh seafood for €10, stay in family-run hotels for €35, swim in crystal-clear water, and drive one of the Mediterranean’s most scenic coastal routes—all without the crowds or prices of Greece, Croatia, or Italy.

My advice? Go soon. The Albanian Riviera is being “discovered” rapidly. It won’t stay this affordable or uncrowded forever. But for now? It’s an absolute gem, and that drive along the SH8 highway is legitimately one of the best coastal drives in Europe.

Pack your sense of adventure, download those offline maps, and get ready for an unforgettable Albania coastal drive. Trust me—you’re going to love it!